Rolex Day-Date 18238 (Visual Assessment of Model 18238 'President' with Mother of Pearl Diamond Dial)

Dress Watch / Complications Watch (Day-Date) · Rolex (Independent). Tier: High-End Luxury. The Day-Date is the flagship brand status symbol.

Period: Neo-Vintage (Late 1980s - 1990s). Stylistic indicators include the 'T SWISS MADE T' tritium dial signature and the five-digit reference architecture.

Rolex Day-Date 18238 (Visual Assessment of Model 18238 'President' with Mother of Pearl Diamond Dial)

Type

Dress Watch / Complications Watch (Day-Date)

Brand

Rolex (Independent). Tier: High-End Luxury. The Day-Date is the flagship brand status symbol.

Movement

Automatic, Rolex Caliber 3155. Features 'Double Quickset' capability for both day and date. 28,800 bph, approximately 48-hour power reserve.

Dimensions

Case diameter: 36mm; Thickness: 12mm; Lug-to-lug: 43mm; Lug width: 20mm. This is the classic mid-size luxury proportion.

Description

The Rolex Day-Date, famously known as the 'President', is the ultimate symbol of success. This specific example features a rare and luxurious Mother of Pearl dial accented by factory-set diamonds. While typically seen on a concealed-clasp President bracelet, this 18k gold piece presents a more architectural look on the Oyster bracelet. The 36mm yellow gold case offers a commanding yet traditional presence on the wrist.

Key Features

Double Quickset movement (Cal. 3155), Mother of Pearl (MOP) dial texture, tritium lume plots, and 18k yellow gold construction.

Dial Description

White Mother of Pearl (MOP) dial with natural iridescent luster. 8 round brilliant-cut diamond indices and 2 baguette-cut diamond indices at 6 and 9 o'clock. Full day aperture at 12 and date window at 3.

Case Material

18k Yellow Gold. High-polish lugs with a brushed finish on the top surface. The appearance in the photo shows significant wear and possible surface tarnishing.

Crystal Type

Sapphire crystal with Cyclops magnification lens over the date. Condition shows grime and potential light surface scratching.

Bezel Details

Fixed 18k Yellow Gold fluted bezel. The 'teeth' of the fluting appear somewhat rounded in the image, suggesting prior polishing or heavy wear.

Crown & Pushers

Screw-down Twinlock crown in 18k yellow gold with Rolex Coronet logo.

Bracelet or Strap

Three-link Oyster-style bracelet. Note: The Day-Date is traditionally paired with the 'President' bracelet; an Oyster bracelet on this model is less common but exists. Condition suggests significant wear/stretch.

Caseback Details

Solid, screw-down 18k yellow gold caseback with characteristic Rolex fine-fluted edges for opening tool.

Movement Type

Automatic, Rolex Caliber 3155. Features 'Double Quickset' capability for both day and date. 28,800 bph, approximately 48-hour power reserve.

Water Resistance

100 Meters (330 Feet). Includes screw-down crown and caseback, suitable for swimming if gaskets are recently serviced and pressure-tested.

Origin & Provenance

Swiss Made. Manufactured in-house in Geneva and Bienne, Switzerland.

Age Estimate

Circa 1990-1998. Period identified by the 'T SWISS MADE T' tritium marking and the sapphire crystal standard of the 18238 generation.

Cultural Significance

Representing the pinnacle of the Rolex 'Oyster' line, the Day-Date is culturally synonymous with power, wealth, and the 'Gold Standard' of horology.

Condition Notes

Fair to Good. Visible dirt/grime on crystal and bezel. The gold case and bracelet show heavy surface scratches and oxidation (tarnishing). Bracelet appears to have 'stretch' or loose links. 'T' dial signature indicates tritium lume which is likely inert.

Value Estimate

$15,000 - $22,000 USD. Value is highly dependent on the authenticity of the dial (factory vs after-market MOP) and the condition of the gold bracelet.

Care & Maintenance

Service every 10 years; check water resistance every 2 years. Use a soft brush and soapy water to remove the visible grime between links/bezel. Avoid polishing to preserve gold weight and sharp edges.

Similar Watches

Rolex Day-Date 118238 (heavier links/polished lugs), Patek Philippe Calatrava (more understated), Vacheron Constantin Overseas (sportier gold alternative).

Interesting Facts

The Day-Date was the first watch to display the day of the week spelled out in full. It has been worn by more world leaders and presidents than any other timepiece in history.

Identified on 6/3/2026