Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196G-001
Dress Watch (Minimalist/Classic) · Patek Philippe (Independent family-owned), Haute Horlogerie tier
Period: Modern Luxury (2000s-present) inspired by mid-century Bauhaus design
Type
Dress Watch (Minimalist/Classic)
Brand
Patek Philippe (Independent family-owned), Haute Horlogerie tier
Movement
Manual/hand-wound mechanical, Patek Philippe Caliber 215 PS, 28,800 vph, 44-hour power reserve, 18 jewels
Dimensions
Case diameter: 37mm, case thickness: 7.68mm, lug-to-lug distance: 44.5mm, lug width: 21mm
Description
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196G is the epitome of the classic dress watch, serving as a direct modern descendant of the legendary Ref. 96 introduced in 1932. With its clean silvery-opaline dial, understated dauphine hands, and slim 37mm white gold case, it offers timeless elegance and impeccable proportions that slide effortlessly under a dress cuff.
Key Features
Direct design lineage to the original 1932 Calatrava Ref. 96, ultra-slim profile at under 8mm, small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock, and the iconic hobnail or smooth bezel variants embodying Bauhaus principles of form following function
Dial Description
Silvery-opaline dial with applied blackened gold baton indices, sharp dauphine hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position
Case Material
18k white gold with a fully polished finish and straight lugs
Crystal Type
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with flat profile
Bezel Details
Fixed smooth, highly polished bezel with a flat top surface and sloped outer edge
Crown & Pushers
Signed small knurled push-pull crown featuring the Calatrava cross insignia
Bracelet or Strap
Black alligator leather strap with square scales and an 18k white gold pin buckle
Caseback Details
Solid 18k white gold snap-on case back, suitable for custom personal engravings
Movement Type
Manual/hand-wound mechanical, Patek Philippe Caliber 215 PS, 28,800 vph, 44-hour power reserve, 18 jewels
Water Resistance
Rated to 30 meters (3 ATM / 100 feet), designed strictly for splash resistance and accidental immersion; swimming or showering should be strictly avoided
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made, manufactured in Geneva, Switzerland, featuring an in-house Patek Philippe mechanical movement
Age Estimate
Modern production, circa 2006 to present
Cultural Significance
The Calatrava is widely considered the archetypal dress watch in horological history, setting the aesthetic standard for round luxury timepieces and influencing countless other brands for nearly a century.
Condition Notes
The watch appears to be in overall excellent condition with a well-preserved polished white gold case, crisp dial printing, and minimal wear on the black leather strap.
Value Estimate
Secondary market value generally ranges between $20,000 and $25,000 USD depending on the presence of the original box, papers, and overall condition
Care & Maintenance
Recommended service interval is every 3 to 5 years for mechanical movements. Avoid exposure to water beyond everyday splashes due to the dress watch rating, keep away from strong magnetic fields, and replace the leather strap periodically as it wears.
Similar Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding, Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin, and Rolex Cellini Moonphase
Interesting Facts
The Calatrava was created during the Great Depression in 1932 and saved Patek Philippe by establishing a timeless design language based on the Bauhaus school of art. The name comes from the Calatrava cross, a 12th-century Spanish military order symbol chosen as the company's logo in 1887.