Cartier Must de Cartier Trinity Dial Ref. 590005
Dress Watch · Cartier (Richemont Group), luxury tier, globally renowned jeweler and watchmaker
Period: Quartz Revolution Era (1980s-1990s)
Type
Dress Watch
Brand
Cartier (Richemont Group), luxury tier, globally renowned jeweler and watchmaker
Movement
Quartz movement, Cartier caliber based on ETA, high reliability, battery-powered
Dimensions
Case diameter approximately 30mm, thickness 6mm, lug-to-lug 35mm, lug width 16mm
Description
The Must de Cartier line was introduced in the 1970s to make Cartier watches more accessible by using vermeil cases and striking colored dials instead of solid precious metals. This particular piece features the legendary Trinity dial layout, showcasing concentric rings in yellow, white, and rose tones that echo the famous Cartier Trinity ring. With its distinctive round case, blue spinel cabochon crown, and minimalist dial, it delivers timeless elegance and unmistakable 1980s luxury aesthetic.
Key Features
Tri-color Trinity concentric dial, vermeil case construction, signature blue cabochon crown, minimalist dial with no hour markers
Dial Description
Iconic Trinity tri-color concentric circles design representing yellow, white, and rose gold with no numerical indices, simple sword hands, and Cartier signature branding
Case Material
Vermeil (Sterling silver heavily gold-plated with 18k yellow gold), polished finish
Crystal Type
Flat mineral glass crystal
Bezel Details
Fixed smooth round gold-plated bezel seamlessly integrated into the vermeil case
Crown & Pushers
Cabochon-set crown featuring Cartier's signature blue synthetic spinel
Bracelet or Strap
Missing strap, originally paired with a black lizard or calfskin leather strap with pin buckle
Caseback Details
Solid snap-on caseback engraved with Cartier hallmarks, serial numbers, and 'Must de Cartier'
Movement Type
Quartz movement, Cartier caliber based on ETA, high reliability, battery-powered
Water Resistance
Splash resistant only (30 meters/3 ATM rated originally, but not recommended for water exposure due to age)
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made, manufactured in Switzerland using outsourced high-grade quartz movements
Age Estimate
Likely late 1980s to early 1990s production
Cultural Significance
Represented a democratisation of luxury in the late 20th century, bringing high-fashion watch design to a broader audience without compromising on style or brand prestige.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good condition. The gold plating shows visible signs of wear, fading, and minor scratching consistent with age. The crystal has light surface scratches. The dial appears well-preserved. Missing strap and spring bars.
Value Estimate
Secondary market value ranges between $600 to $1,200 USD depending heavily on overall cosmetic condition, presence of original box and papers, and functionality.
Care & Maintenance
Avoid polishing due to the vermeil plating layer which can easily wear through to the underlying silver. Replace battery promptly when depleted to prevent leakage. Keep away from water due to age and lack of modern seals.
Similar Watches
Cartier Tank Must, Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme, Omega DeVille quartz models
Interesting Facts
The Must de Cartier collection successfully revived the brand's fortunes during the quartz crisis by offering lower-priced entry points into luxury watch ownership while maintaining iconic design DNA.