Zertum Vintage Chronograph 17 Rubis
Chronograph, Racing/Telemetric Watch · Zertum, a lesser-known Swiss brand (often referred to as a 'boutique' or 'private label' assembler). These brands used outsourced movements from Ebauches SA (Landeron, Valjoux) to create high-quality chronographs for local markets.
Period: Mid-Century Modern (Late 1940s-1950s). Stylistic indicators include the syringe/baton hands, telemetric and tachymetric scales, and the use of 'Incabloc' and 'Antimagnetic' text on the dial, which were major marketing points during this expansion of tool watch utility.
Type
Chronograph, Racing/Telemetric Watch
Brand
Zertum, a lesser-known Swiss brand (often referred to as a 'boutique' or 'private label' assembler). These brands used outsourced movements from Ebauches SA (Landeron, Valjoux) to create high-quality chronographs for local markets.
Movement
Manual-wind mechanical chronograph, likely a Landeron 48 or 148 caliber or a Venus 170/188. Features 17 jewels (Rubis), Incabloc shock protection, and operates at approximately 18,000 vph.
Dimensions
Case diameter: 35mm-36mm; Thickness: 12mm; Lug-to-lug: 43mm; Lug width: 18mm. Typical of the mid-size men’s watches of the 1950s.
Description
This Zertum chronograph represents the post-WWII boom in functional horology. It is a classic 'doctor's' or 'engineer's' watch, designed with dual scales on the dial for measuring speed and distance. Its warm champagne dial and complex sub-dials offer a rich, vintage aesthetic that embodies the utilitarian elegance of the 1950s.
Key Features
Two-register chronograph layout; 'Incabloc' shock protection branding; Telemetric/Tachymetric scales; Chrome-plated case; 17-jewel manual movement.
Dial Description
Champagne/Gold-toned dial with heavy age-related patina (foxing). Features a two-register layout (small seconds at 9, 30 or 45-minute counter at 3), applied gold Arabic numerals and dagger indices, and a peripheral tachymeter/telemeter scale in black and red. Syringe-style handset.
Case Material
Chrome-plated base metal case with a stainless steel caseback. Visible wear on the lugs and crown shows the brassy base metal beneath the original plating.
Crystal Type
Acrylic/Hesalite domed crystal. Shows minor surface scratching consistent with age.
Bezel Details
Fixed, thin, polished bezel integrated into the mid-case design, typical of non-dive chronographs of this era.
Crown & Pushers
Original push-pull crown; rectangular/oblong "pump" pushers for start/stop (top) and reset (bottom) chronograph functions.
Bracelet or Strap
Vintage-style black padded leather strap with tonal stitching and a simple pin-buckle (likely aftermarket).
Caseback Details
Solid, snap-on or screw-down stainless steel caseback. Likely contains standard period engravings regarding water resistance (though no longer applicable) and 'Fond Acier Inoxydable'.
Movement Type
Manual-wind mechanical chronograph, likely a Landeron 48 or 148 caliber or a Venus 170/188. Features 17 jewels (Rubis), Incabloc shock protection, and operates at approximately 18,000 vph.
Water Resistance
Non-existent. Although it may have been rated for splash resistance originally, vintage seals have likely failed. Complete avoidance of humidity and water is recommended.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made. Likely assembled in one of the major watchmaking hubs like La Chaux-de-Fonds using standardized Swiss components.
Age Estimate
Circa 1950-1955 based on the dial typography, hand style, and the transition from square to rectangular pushers.
Cultural Significance
Chronographs of this era were essential tools before the digital age, used by pilots to navigate and medical professionals to track pulse rates. They signify the transition of the watch from a purely decorative item to a measurement instrument.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good. The case shows significant 'brassing' where the plating has worn through. The dial has a heavy, even patina with some spotting (tropicalization). Hands are original but show oxidation. The movement requires a service check before operation.
Value Estimate
$400 - $750 USD depending on the specific movement caliber inside and mechanical health. The case wear (brassing) and brand obscurity keep it affordable compared to big-name vintage pieces.
Care & Maintenance
Requires manual winding every 24-36 hours. Do not wear near water as gaskets are likely perished. Avoid magnetic fields (despite the 'Antimagnetic' label). Service every 5-7 years by a specialist in vintage chronographs due to the complexity of the cam-actuated movement.
Similar Watches
Vintage Breitling Premiers or Heuer chronographs of the same era (significantly more expensive) or boutique brands like Chronographe Suisse, Gallet, or Pierce.
Interesting Facts
Many brands like Zertum disappeared during the 'Quartz Crisis' of the 1970s, making these surviving mechanical chronographs a tangible link to a lost era of independent Swiss assembly.