Belfonte Cocktail Watch (Vintage Ladies Hexagonal)
Ladies Dress / Cocktail Watch · Belfonte (a sub-brand or private label distributor). Belfonte was one of many minor Swiss-sourced brands that imported movements for the US market (often associated with the Sheffield or similar import houses). Brand Tier: Affordable Luxury/Consumer-grade of its era.
Period: Mid-Century Modern (Late 1950s - 1960s). This period is indicated by the 'shrunken' cocktail proportions, the geometric hexagonal case shape popular in atomic-era design, and the use of stylized applied indices common in post-WWII feminine horology.
Type
Ladies Dress / Cocktail Watch
Brand
Belfonte (a sub-brand or private label distributor). Belfonte was one of many minor Swiss-sourced brands that imported movements for the US market (often associated with the Sheffield or similar import houses). Brand Tier: Affordable Luxury/Consumer-grade of its era.
Movement
Manual / Hand-Wound mechanical movement. Likely a small 17-jewel Swiss ebauche caliber (such as a Fontainemelon/FHF or ETA diminutive caliber) common for American-imported Swiss brands during this era.
Dimensions
Case diameter: ~15-18mm; Thickness: ~8mm (including crystal); Lug-to-lug: ~25mm; Lug width: Integrated/Custom for cocktail bracelet (approx. 4-6mm at junction). Wears very small, typical of mid-century 'jewelry' style watches.
Description
This Belfonte ladies' watch is a classic example of mid-century 'cocktail' aesthetic, where the timepiece is designed to function as a piece of formal jewelry. The unusual hexagonal case provides a geometric flair that distinguishes it from the standard round or oval watches of the time. While currently showing the wear of several decades, its sunburst dial and applied numerals once captured the light elegantly under its faceted crystal, intended for evening wear and formal social gatherings.
Key Features
Hexagonal case geometry, faceted acrylic crystal, 'SWISS' signed dial at 6 o'clock, alpha-style hands, and an integrated decorative bracelet.
Dial Description
Sunburst champagne or aged silver dial, now showing significant patina/oxidation. Features applied gold-tone Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, with dart-style faceted indices for the remaining hours. Gold-tone alpha or baton hands.
Case Material
Estimated 10k or 14k Gold-Filled or Rolled Gold Plate (RGP) with a polished finish. There is visible wear/tarnishing on the lower lugs suggesting base metal exposure through gold plating.
Crystal Type
Acrylic/Plexiglass (faceted/hexagonal box style). Shows heavy scratching ('crazing'), scuffing, and edge chips which obscure the dial significantly.
Bezel Details
Fixed integrated bezel as part of the hexagonal case structure. Distinctive 12-sided or faceted bezel ring surrounding the crystal to add jewelry-like light reflection.
Crown & Pushers
Small push-pull fluted crown, likely original, located at the 3 o'clock position. No branding visible. Proportions are designed to be discrete for a feminine profile.
Bracelet or Strap
Integrated jewelry-style bracelet. The visible top portion features a gold-tone 'fancy' link or bypass-knot design, likely matching the case material (gold-filled or plated).
Caseback Details
Solid, snap-on case back. Likely stainless steel or gold-filled. Typically would contain stamps for gold content (e.g., '10K RGP') and a serial number on the interior.
Movement Type
Manual / Hand-Wound mechanical movement. Likely a small 17-jewel Swiss ebauche caliber (such as a Fontainemelon/FHF or ETA diminutive caliber) common for American-imported Swiss brands during this era.
Water Resistance
Non-existent. Exposure to moisture or even high humidity will likely cause further dial damage and movement rust.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made. Likely assembled in Switzerland or imported as movements to be cased in the United States to avoid high tariffs of the 1950s-60s.
Age Estimate
Circa 1955-1965 based on the case geometry and the 'Belfonte' branding font style.
Cultural Significance
Represents the transition of watches from tools to essential fashion accessories for women. These small watches were the standard for femininity before the 'Quartz Crisis' and the trend toward larger unisex timepieces in the 1990s.
Condition Notes
Fair to Poor. The crystal is heavily scratched and requires replacement or significant polishing. The dial shows signs of moisture ingress or oxidation (spotting). The case shows 'brassing' (plating wear) on the lugs. Mechanical functionality is unknown but likely requires a full service (CLE).
Value Estimate
$20 - $75 USD. Value is mostly sentimental or for parts/restoration. If the case is solid gold (unlikely without markings), value would increase based on gold melt weight.
Care & Maintenance
Avoid all water contact as there are no gaskets. For the crystal, use Polywatch for light scratches, but deep gouges require replacement. Manual movement should not be over-wound (stop when resistance is felt). Professional cleaning is required if the movement has been sitting for years.
Similar Watches
Vintage Bulova Cocktail watches, Hamilton 'Lady Hamilton' series, or Longines vintage ladies' diamonds watches. Difference is Belfonte was generally a more affordable price-point alternative to Hamilton or Bulova.
Interesting Facts
Belfonte was a brand that leveraged the 'Swiss Made' reputation to sell accessible luxury to the growing middle class in the post-war era. Many of these watches were sold through department stores and independent jewelers rather than high-end boutiques.