Tudor Heritage Black Bay Ref. 79230N
Dive Watch (Modern-Vintage Sub-category) · Tudor (Owned by Rolex SA), Luxury tier, highly regarded for combining robust tool-watch heritage with accessible luxury.
Period: Neo-Vintage / Modern Luxury (2010s-present)
Type
Dive Watch (Modern-Vintage Sub-category)
Brand
Tudor (Owned by Rolex SA), Luxury tier, highly regarded for combining robust tool-watch heritage with accessible luxury.
Movement
Automatic, Tudor Manufacture Caliber MT5602, 28,800 vph (4Hz), approximately 70-hour power reserve, 25 jewels.
Dimensions
Case diameter: 41 mm, Case thickness: 14.8 mm, Lug-to-lug distance: 50 mm, Lug width: 22 mm.
Description
The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Ref. 79230N is a masterclass in modern neo-vintage watch design. Drawing deep inspiration from Tudor's historic dive watches of the mid-20th century, particularly the Ref. 7922 'Big Crown' from 1958, this timepiece blends vintage aesthetics with modern horological engineering. The matte black dial is accented with gilt printing and warm luminous markers, complemented by the iconic 'snowflake' hands originally developed for the French Navy in the 1970s. Encased in a robust 41mm stainless steel case and powered by the COSC-certified in-house Caliber MT5602 with a weekend-proof 70-hour power reserve, the Black Bay offers exceptional reliability and timeless tool-watch charm.
Key Features
Snowflake hands, gilt dial printing, vintage-tinted lume, prominent unsigned or rose-logo screw-down crown with colored tube, riveted steel bracelet, and an in-house COSC-certified chronometer movement with a 70-hour power reserve.
Dial Description
Matte black dial with gilt/gold text and minute track, applied round and geometric hour markers filled with vintage-tinted luminous material, signature snowflake hands, no date window for a clean symmetrical layout.
Case Material
Stainless steel (316L), combination of polished flanks and satin-brushed top surfaces.
Crystal Type
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, mimicking the warm distortion of vintage acrylic crystals.
Bezel Details
Unidirectional rotating bezel with a matte black anodized aluminum insert, 60-minute dive scale, and a distinctive red triangle marker at 12 o'clock.
Crown & Pushers
Large screw-down winding crown in stainless steel featuring the engraved historic Tudor rose logo, set on a prominent anodized aluminum tube.
Bracelet or Strap
Riveted stainless steel bracelet inspired by Tudor's 1950s and 1960s designs, featuring flat links with visible rivet heads on the sides and a folding clasp with safety catch.
Caseback Details
Solid screw-down stainless steel case back with circular brushing and minimal utilitarian engravings.
Movement Type
Automatic, Tudor Manufacture Caliber MT5602, 28,800 vph (4Hz), approximately 70-hour power reserve, 25 jewels.
Water Resistance
200 meters (660 feet) / 20 ATM, fully suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and recreational scuba diving, though not intended for saturation diving.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made, manufactured in Geneva, Switzerland, featuring an in-house automatic movement produced by Kenissi, Tudor's movement manufacturing arm.
Age Estimate
Circa 2016-present (introduced with the in-house movement in 2016 to replace the ETA-powered Ref. 79220N).
Cultural Significance
It represents the vanguard of the 'vintage reissue' trend that dominated watchmaking in the 2010s. It proved that modern buyers deeply desire the charm and nostalgia of vintage tool watches combined with the durability and accuracy of modern manufacturing.
Condition Notes
The watch appears in excellent condition, showing minimal to no wear on the case, bezel insert, and crystal. The bracelet retains sharp brushing, and the dial and hands are pristine with intact luminous material.
Value Estimate
Secondary market value generally ranges between $3,000 and $4,000 USD depending on condition, inclusion of original box and papers, and whether it is mounted on the bracelet or leather strap.
Care & Maintenance
Recommended service interval is every 5 to 10 years for the in-house automatic movement. Water resistance should be tested annually, especially if used for swimming or diving. Clean the stainless steel bracelet periodically with mild soap and warm water using a soft brush.
Similar Watches
Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 (more expensive, luxury benchmark), Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial (similar vintage-inspired dive aesthetic with a luxury finish), Longines Legend Diver (alternative heritage diver at a lower price point).
Interesting Facts
The Black Bay line was instrumental in revitalizing the Tudor brand globally, transforming it from a 'poor man's Rolex' into an independent, highly sought-after powerhouse with its own distinct identity. The inclusion of the 'snowflake' hands pays homage to vintage issued military watches that command six-figure sums at auction.