Jean Perret Quartz Ref. 217 (Cartier Santos Style)
Dress Watch / Fashion Watch · Jean Perret (Geneva); an independent Swiss brand established in 1893. Historically a mid-tier Swiss brand often focused on fashion-forward designs and private labeling.
Period: Quartz Revolution Era (1980s-1990s); characterized by the 'Neo-Classical' integrated bezel look popularized by the Cartier Santos Galbée.
Type
Dress Watch / Fashion Watch
Brand
Jean Perret (Geneva); an independent Swiss brand established in 1893. Historically a mid-tier Swiss brand often focused on fashion-forward designs and private labeling.
Movement
Quartz Movement; likely a Swiss ETA or Ronda caliber. Features center seconds, minutes, hours, and date complication. Non-jeweled or low-jewel count.
Dimensions
Case diameter: 29-31mm (small to mid-size); Thickness: 7-8mm; Lug-to-lug: 36-38mm; Lug width: 18mm.
Description
This Jean Perret timepiece is a quintessential example of the 1980s Swiss fashion watch boom. It heavily borrows design cues from the iconic Cartier Santos, specifically the industrial-chic aesthetic of exposed screws on a precious metal bezel. The square case with softened edges provides a sophisticated silhouette that suggests luxury while remaining accessible. It represents a period where independent Swiss labels flourished by offering 'the look' of high-end icons with reliable quartz movements.
Key Features
Square two-tone case layout, exposed screws on the bezel, 4:30 date window placement, and the cursive Jean Perret logo.
Dial Description
Champagne/Gold-tone sunburst or matte dial with applied thin baton indices. Slender baton hands. Small date window at 4 or 5 o'clock position. Script 'Jean Perret' logo below 12 and 'Q' (Quartz) symbol above 6.
Case Material
Two-tone construction; stainless steel base case with a gold-plated (electroplated) bezel featuring exposed steel rivets/screws.
Crystal Type
Flat Mineral Glass or Acrylic; appears to have light surface abrasions consistent with age.
Bezel Details
Fixed square bezel with rounded corners. Gold-plated finish secured by eight functional or decorative exposed steel screws in the 'Santos' style.
Crown & Pushers
Push-pull crown, likely gold-plated, small diameter, located at 3 o'clock. No crown guards.
Bracelet or Strap
Aftermarket or replacement dark brown lizard-grain embossed leather strap with tonal stitching and a standard pin buckle.
Caseback Details
Solid stainless steel caseback, likely snap-on or secured with screws at the corners, featuring basic engravings including brand name and reference number.
Movement Type
Quartz Movement; likely a Swiss ETA or Ronda caliber. Features center seconds, minutes, hours, and date complication. Non-jeweled or low-jewel count.
Water Resistance
Non-water resistant; splash-proof at best. Not suitable for swimming or showering due to age and construction.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made; assembled in Geneva or Jura region of Switzerland using standard industry components.
Age Estimate
Produced circa 1985-1995 based on the style of the 'Q' logo and the popularity of the two-tone square aesthetic during that decade.
Cultural Significance
A relic of the 'Power Dressing' era of the 1980s where the two-tone square watch was a status symbol of the emerging professional class.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good. Significant wear/fading to the gold plating on the bezel. Visible scratches on the case and crystal. Strap is aged and likely needs replacement for longevity. Movement functionality is dependent on a fresh battery.
Value Estimate
$50 - $150 USD. Value is largely sentimental or aesthetic; limited collector demand for this specific brand compared to the major Swiss houses.
Care & Maintenance
Requires battery replacement every 2-3 years. Avoid water exposure as gaskets are likely perished. Clean the case with a soft dry cloth; avoid polish on the bezel as it will further remove the gold plating.
Similar Watches
Cartier Santos Galbée (the original inspiration), Raymond Weil Parsifal (square variants), and various Seiko quartz models from the 1980s.
Interesting Facts
Jean Perret is a brand known for its longevity as an independent family company in Geneva, though it never reached the global recognition of the brands it sought to emulate stylistically.