Dogma Prima 'Ancre 15 Rubis' Antimagnetic Small Seconds
Dress Watch (Vintage Jumbo style) · Dogma (Fabrique d'Horlogerie Dogma, Ariste Calame), an established Swiss brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds that specialized in affordable luxury and military-style watches.
Period: Mid-Century Modern (Late 1940s-1950s). The oversized 'Jumbo' case and dot-index dial are hallmark indicators of post-WWII European design.
Type
Dress Watch (Vintage Jumbo style)
Brand
Dogma (Fabrique d'Horlogerie Dogma, Ariste Calame), an established Swiss brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds that specialized in affordable luxury and military-style watches.
Movement
Manual/Hand-wound, likely a Swiss ETA 1130 or AS 1130 (the 'Wehrmachtswerk') caliber; 15 jewels, 18,000 vibrations per hour, typically 38-42 hour power reserve.
Dimensions
Case diameter: 36-38mm (oversized for the era), thickness: 10mm, lug-to-lug: 45mm, lug width: 18-20mm. It wears larger due to the thin bezel and large dial surface.
Description
This Dogma represents the quintessential post-war 'Jumbo' dress watch. These were popular in Continental Europe (particularly Spain and the Balkans) as they offered a prestigious, large wrist presence at an accessible price point. The dial features a fascinating geometric dot configuration that gives it a more artistic, less clinical feel than standard field watches of the time.
Key Features
Oversized 'Jumbo' case proportions; unique triple-dot hour markers; 'Ancre 15 Rubis' (15-jewel lever escapement) branding; sunken sub-seconds register.
Dial Description
Champagne/Cream patina dial with a unique 'Triple-Dot' index pattern; Roman numerals at XII, III, VI, and IX. Sunken small-seconds subdial at 6 o'clock. Leaf/Feuille gold-tone hands.
Case Material
Chromium-plated base metal (likely brass) with a stainless steel snap-back; visible wear shows the plating thinning at the lugs and edges.
Crystal Type
Domed acrylic (HESALITE/Plexiglass); shows significant surface scratching and micro-cracking consistent with age.
Bezel Details
Fixed, thin polished bezel integrated into the case structure to maximize dial visibility.
Crown & Pushers
Push-pull knurled steel crown, likely an aftermarket replacement given the lack of plating wear compared to the case.
Bracelet or Strap
Not pictured/Missing; the watch features fixed or spring bars that would typically accommodate a 19mm leather lizard or calfskin strap.
Caseback Details
Solid stainless steel snap-on caseback, likely featuring the Dogma star logo and 'Stainless Steel Back' stamp internally or externally.
Movement Type
Manual/Hand-wound, likely a Swiss ETA 1130 or AS 1130 (the 'Wehrmachtswerk') caliber; 15 jewels, 18,000 vibrations per hour, typically 38-42 hour power reserve.
Water Resistance
Non-existent (0m). Even humidity should be avoided due to the lack of gaskets in the snap-back case and around the crown stem.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made; manufactured in the Jura region of Switzerland using an outsourced ebauche movement (Swiss lever escape).
Age Estimate
Circa 1945–1955 based on the dial fonts, the use of 'Ancre 15 Rubis' text, and the oversized case trend of that specific decade.
Cultural Significance
Represents the democratization of Swiss watchmaking in the post-war era, moving away from purely military tools toward elegant, large-format civilian accessories.
Condition Notes
Fair/Good Condition. Significant brassing (plating loss) on the case. Dial shows 'tropical' spotting/patina and oxidation near the edges. Crystal needs polywatch treatment or replacement. Crown may be a later replacement. Movement likely needs a service (cleaning and oiling).
Value Estimate
$150 - $350 USD. Value is currenty limited by the base metal (plated) case; solid gold or steel versions of this size command significantly higher premiums.
Care & Maintenance
Avoid all water contact as vintage gaskets are likely non-existent. Wind daily at the same time but do not over-wind. Service every 5-7 years by a watchmaker familiar with Swiss lever movements to prevent wear on the mainspring barrel.
Similar Watches
Omega 2505 (38mm Jumbo), Longines Calatrava-style vintage, Zenith Sporto, and oversized Tissot Antimagnetique models.
Interesting Facts
Dogma watches were exceptionally popular in Spain during the mid-20th century. While the brand is now essentially defunct, vintage examples are highly sought after by collectors for their larger-than-average vintage sizes which fit modern wrists perfectly.