Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16800
Dive Watch (Professional Tool Watch) · Rolex (Rolex SA), positioned in the luxury tier as one of the world's most prestigious and recognizable watch manufacturers with an unmatched reputation for durability and precision.
Period: Neo-Vintage (1980s-1990s)
Type
Dive Watch (Professional Tool Watch)
Brand
Rolex (Rolex SA), positioned in the luxury tier as one of the world's most prestigious and recognizable watch manufacturers with an unmatched reputation for durability and precision.
Movement
Automatic mechanical, Rolex Caliber 3035, operating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), with an approximate 42-hour power reserve, 27 jewels, and featuring a quickset date complication.
Dimensions
40 mm case diameter, approximately 12.5 mm thickness, 47 mm lug-to-lug distance, and a 20 mm lug width.
Description
The Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16800 represents a crucial bridge between the vintage tool watches of the past and the modern luxury divers of today. As the first Submariner to feature a sapphire crystal and a quickset date mechanism while retaining a matte dial in its early production, it combines robust historical utility with everyday wearability. The iconic 40mm Oyster case, stark black dial, and clean rotating bezel create an enduring aesthetic that defines the modern dive watch category.
Key Features
Introduction of the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal to the Submariner line, a quickset date function via the Caliber 3035 movement, a unidirectional rotating bezel (upgraded from the bidirectional friction bezel of the Ref. 1680), and tritium luminous material.
Dial Description
Matte black dial with tritium hour markers enclosed in white gold surrounds (signifying a transitional or later gloss/matte dial variant), traditional Mercedes hands, and a magnified date window at 3 o'clock via a Cyclops lens.
Case Material
Stainless steel (904L alloy), featuring a combination of high-polished flanks and brushed/satin-finished upper surfaces on the lugs.
Crystal Type
Scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire crystal with a 2.5x Cyclops magnification lens over the date window.
Bezel Details
Unidirectional rotating black aluminum bezel insert with a luminous pearl pip at 12 o'clock and a standard 60-minute graduation scale for timing dives.
Crown & Pushers
Triplock screw-down crown featuring three gasket seals for enhanced water resistance, protected by prominent integrated stainless steel crown guards and bearing the Rolex coronet logo.
Bracelet or Strap
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet (likely Ref. 93150 with 593 end links) featuring folded-to-solid style links and a folding Oysterlock safety clasp with a diver's extension.
Caseback Details
Solid stainless steel screw-down case back with traditional perimeter fluting and a plain, unengraved brushed center typical of vintage and neo-vintage Rolex sports models.
Movement Type
Automatic mechanical, Rolex Caliber 3035, operating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), with an approximate 42-hour power reserve, 27 jewels, and featuring a quickset date complication.
Water Resistance
Rated to 300 meters (1,000 feet / 30 ATM), suitable for professional marine activity, skin diving, and serious scuba diving, though vintage pieces should be professionally pressure-tested before underwater use.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made, manufactured in Geneva, Switzerland, utilizing an in-house automatic mechanical movement.
Age Estimate
Circa 1981-1988 (Neo-vintage era corresponding to the production run of the Ref. 16800 with matte/tritium dial characteristics).
Cultural Significance
The Submariner is universally recognized as the archetypal dive watch, having heavily influenced the design language of virtually all modern dive timepieces. It represents the transition of the mechanical watch from a purely professional instrument into a status symbol of successful adventure.
Condition Notes
The watch is in very good neo-vintage condition. The case shows minor surface wear consistent with age, but maintains strong lug shapes. The bezel insert remains clean with crisp markings. The tritium dial and hands show a warm, matching creamy patina, and the crystal is clear of major scratches.
Value Estimate
Estimated secondary market value ranges between $9,000 and $14,000 USD, heavily dependent on the condition of the case, originality of the dial/hands, inclusion of original box and papers, and recent service history.
Care & Maintenance
Recommended complete overhaul every 5 to 10 years by a qualified watchmaker. Water resistance gaskets should be pressure-tested annually if exposed to water. Avoid exposing the vintage tritium dial to moisture, and store in a secure watch box away from strong magnetic fields.
Similar Watches
Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 (predecessor with acrylic crystal and bidirectional bezel), Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610 (successor featuring the upgraded Caliber 3135 and glossy dial with white gold surrounds), and the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M.
Interesting Facts
The Ref. 16800 was the transitional model that modernized the Submariner, doubling the depth rating from its predecessor (the Ref. 1680) to 300 meters (1,000 feet) and introducing the robust Triplock crown system.