Vintage Oris 'Bullseye' Dress Watch (Likely Refurbished/HMT-style Indian Redial)
Vintage Dress Watch · Oris (Independent). Traditionally an entry-to-mid luxury Swiss brand, though this specific unit appears to be a franken-watch or redialed vintage piece common in the secondary market.
Period: Mid-Century Style (1960s-1970s aesthetics). The style is a 'Bullseye' or sector dial design, though the execution suggests a contemporary Indian refurbishment (Mumbai Special).
Type
Vintage Dress Watch
Brand
Oris (Independent). Traditionally an entry-to-mid luxury Swiss brand, though this specific unit appears to be a franken-watch or redialed vintage piece common in the secondary market.
Movement
Manual-wind, likely Oris Calibre 600 series or a generic FHF/ST 96 movement (17 Jewels, Shock Proof). Usually beats at 18,000 Alt/h.
Dimensions
34mm to 36mm diameter (excluding crown), 10mm thickness, 42mm lug-to-lug, 18mm lug width.
Description
This is a colorful, mid-century inspired Oris featuring a striking burgundy and black two-tone dial. While it carries the vintage aesthetic of a classic dress watch, the high-contrast printing and distinctive lug shape are hallmarks of watches that have been aesthetically 're-imagined' by restorers. It offers a vintage Swiss mechanical experience at an entry-level price point.
Key Features
Flared teardrop lugs (fancy lugs), bold two-tone burgundy sector dial, flat printed oversized indices, and 17-jewel manual wind movement.
Dial Description
Two-tone 'Bullseye' dial with a burgundy-red center and a dark chocolate/black outer ring. Bold, oversized rectangular gold-tone printed indices. Alpha-style hands. Text reads 'ORIS', '17 JEWELS', 'SHOCK PROOF', and 'SWISS MADE'.
Case Material
Gold-plated (EPG) or brass-based alloy with a polished finish. The lugs feature a distinctive 'fancy' or teardrop-style flared design.
Crystal Type
Domed Acrylic / Hesalite plexiglass. Common for watches of this era and for refurbished vintage pieces.
Bezel Details
Fixed, thin, polished gold-plated bezel that is integrated into the case structure.
Crown & Pushers
Small, gold-toned push-pull crown with fine knurling; likely unsigned/replacement.
Bracelet or Strap
Brown croc-embossed leather strap with matching gold-tone pin buckle (aftermarket).
Caseback Details
Likely a screw-down or snap-on stainless steel caseback. Often features the Oris logo and 'Water Resistant' / 'Shock Resistant' text.
Movement Type
Manual-wind, likely Oris Calibre 600 series or a generic FHF/ST 96 movement (17 Jewels, Shock Proof). Usually beats at 18,000 Alt/h.
Water Resistance
Negligible. Rated as 'Water Resistant' originally (3ATM/30m), but age and refurbishment mean it should be treated as non-water resistant.
Origin & Provenance
Original movement/case components are Swiss Made (Hölstein). However, the dial and assembly often originate from refurbishment shops in India (hence the 'Mumbai Special' moniker).
Age Estimate
Original components circa 1960s-1970s; Dial refurbishment likely 2010s-2024.
Cultural Significance
Represents the democratization of Swiss mechanical watches. While purists prefer original dials, these refurbished 'Mumbai Specials' have a cult following for their vibrant colors and affordable entry into mechanical horology.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good. The dial is likely a 'redial' (new paint on old plate). The case plating shows high polish but may have soft edges from previous buffing. Lume is likely inactive or non-existent despite index appearance.
Value Estimate
$40 - $120 USD. Value is capped by the 'redial' status; collectors prefer original, aged dials over repainted ones.
Care & Maintenance
Not water resistant. Avoid moisture at all costs. Wind daily at the same time but do not over-wind. Service every 3-5 years by a local watchmaker familiar with vintage Swiss calibres.
Similar Watches
Vintage Seiko 5, HMT Sona, vintage Fortis manual-winds, or modern Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (for a genuine heritage alternative).
Interesting Facts
During the mid-20th century, Oris was one of the largest watch manufacturers in the world. Many of their manual-wind movements from the 60s and 70s were exported worldwide, leading to a massive secondary market for refurbished 'colorful' versions today.