Bulova Marine Star 'Aerojet-Style' Diamond Dial Ref. 98D103
Sport/Luxury Dress Watch · Bulova (owned by Citizen Watch Co.). Bulova is a mid-range heritage brand known for making 'attainable luxury' timepieces with high-quality exterior finishing for the price point.
Period: Modern Luxury (late 2000s - present). This design utilizes the 'Integrated Sport Watch' aesthetic popularized in the 1970s by Gérald Genta but applies modern industrial finishes and jewel accents.
Type
Sport/Luxury Dress Watch
Brand
Bulova (owned by Citizen Watch Co.). Bulova is a mid-range heritage brand known for making 'attainable luxury' timepieces with high-quality exterior finishing for the price point.
Movement
Japanese Quartz, 0-jewels. Typically powered by a Miyota caliber (a subsidiary of Citizen/Bulova). Features high accuracy and a standard 2-3 year battery life.
Dimensions
Case diameter: 42mm; Thickness: 10.5mm; Lug-to-lug: 48mm; Lug width: 22mm. The angular lugs make it wear slightly larger and flatter than a traditional round watch.
Description
An assertive, masculine timepiece that blends the ruggedness of a sports watch with the elegance of a dress watch. This Marine Star model is defined by its dramatic octagonal bezel and diamond-set dial, offering a bold visual impact on the wrist that punch above its weight class in terms of 'curb appeal.'
Key Features
The most diagnostic feature is the octagonal 'Genta-inspired' bezel combined with the textured waffle dial and diamond indices. The specific 98D103 reference is recognized by this monochromatic steel and black diamond aesthetic.
Dial Description
Black dial featuring a 'Grid' or 'Waffle' texture. It includes 11 genuine hand-set diamonds as hour markers. Applied Bulova tuning fork logo at 12 o'clock, baton hands with luminous fill, and a date window at 3 o'clock. 'Marine Star' script is visible on the lower half.
Case Material
Stainless steel (316L) with a combination of brushed face and polished chamfered edges to emphasize the geometric architecture.
Crystal Type
Flat Mineral Crystal. It lacks an AR coating and the Cyclops lens usually found on more expensive luxury divers.
Bezel Details
Fixed octagonal bezel with a brushed top surface and polished sides, reminiscent of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. It is non-rotating.
Crown & Pushers
Standard push-pull crown at 3 o'clock with integrated crown guards. There are no chronograph pushers.
Bracelet or Strap
Three-link 'Oyster' style stainless steel bracelet with a fold-over deployment clasp and safety bar. It features a mix of brushed and polished links.
Caseback Details
Solid, screw-down stainless steel caseback. Features the Bulova logo, serial number, and water resistance rating engraved. The movement is not visible.
Movement Type
Japanese Quartz, 0-jewels. Typically powered by a Miyota caliber (a subsidiary of Citizen/Bulova). Features high accuracy and a standard 2-3 year battery life.
Water Resistance
100 meters (10 ATM). Suitable for swimming and snorkeling, but not recommended for high-impact water sports or scuba diving due to the push-pull crown design.
Origin & Provenance
Japanese movement (Miyota) cased in China. While Bulova is an American-founded brand, modern production is managed under Citizen's Japanese infrastructure.
Age Estimate
Circa 2010–2020. This specific aesthetic and the use of the 'Marine Star' branding on an octagonal case suggest a production date within the last 15 years.
Cultural Significance
This watch represents the 'democratization' of luxury design. It allows enthusiasts to enjoy the aesthetic of high-end integrated-bracelet watches (like the AP Royal Oak or Patek Nautilus) at a fraction of the cost.
Condition Notes
Based on the image, the watch appears in 'Good' to 'Very Good' condition. There are visible light scratches on the polished bezel edges and bracelet links consistent with regular wear. Crystal appears clear without major chips.
Value Estimate
Pre-owned market value: $100–$225 USD depending on box and papers. Original MSRP was approximately $350–$450 USD. Condition and diamond certification (if present) affect the price.
Care & Maintenance
Requires battery replacement every 2-3 years. Keep the gaskets lubricated if used near water. Use a soft toothbrush and mild soap to clean skin oils from between the bracelet links to prevent 'pins' from wearing down.
Similar Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (the luxury inspiration), Tissot PRX (competitor with integrated bracelet), Casio 'CasiOak' GA2100 (affordable octagonal alternative).
Interesting Facts
The 'Marine Star' collection was originally Bulova's answer to professional dive watches in the 1970s. Over time, it evolved into a lifestyle collection that emphasizes style and versatility over deep-sea saturation diving.