Breitling Chronomat Ref. 81950
Chronograph / Pilot Watch · Breitling SA, independent luxury Swiss watchmaker renowned for aviation instruments and chronographs
Period: Modern Luxury / Neo-Vintage (1980s-1990s)
Type
Chronograph / Pilot Watch
Brand
Breitling SA, independent luxury Swiss watchmaker renowned for aviation instruments and chronographs
Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph, Valjoux 7750 base movement operating at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve
Dimensions
Case diameter approximately 39mm, thickness around 14mm, lug-to-lug approximately 45mm, lug width 20mm
Description
This Breitling Chronomat represents the revival era of the brand in the post-quartz crisis landscape. Featuring the iconic Rouleaux bracelet and distinctive rider-tab bezel developed alongside the Italian Frecce Tricolori aerobatic team, it combines robust pilot utility with flashy 1980s luxury aesthetics. The silver dial with integrated subdials gives it a commanding presence on the wrist.
Key Features
Four rider tabs on the bezel, unique Rouleaux bracelet design, Valjoux 7750 chronograph layout with angled date aperture between 4 and 5 o'clock, rider-tab pilot bezel heritage
Dial Description
Silver/white dial with three contrasting subdials in a tricompax layout, applied baton indices, luminous sword hands, tachymeter scale on the inner flange, and a date window positioned between 4 and 5 o'clock
Case Material
Stainless steel with polished and brushed finishes, featuring characteristic rider tabs on the bezel
Crystal Type
Mineral glass or sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Bezel Details
Unidirectional rotating rider tab bezel in stainless steel with characteristic 15-minute markers and protruding tabs for easy grip with flight gloves
Crown & Pushers
Screw-down onion/ridged crown with Breitling logo, flanked by pump-style chronograph pushers
Bracelet or Strap
Stainless steel Rouleaux (bullet) bracelet featuring cylindrical links with a folding clasp
Caseback Details
Solid stainless steel screw-down caseback featuring Breitling manufacturing hallmarks and technical specifications engraved in the center
Movement Type
Automatic mechanical chronograph, Valjoux 7750 base movement operating at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve
Water Resistance
Rated to 100 meters (330 feet / 10 ATM), suitable for swimming and snorkeling, but gaskets should be tested annually due to the age of the timepiece
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made, manufactured in Grenchen and La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, utilizing heavily modified Swiss Valjoux mechanical chronograph movements
Age Estimate
Circa late 1980s to early 1990s
Cultural Significance
Pivotal in defining the bold, luxurious tool-watch aesthetic of the late 20th century, bridging the gap between utilitarian flight instruments and high-status luxury lifestyle accessories.
Condition Notes
Moderate surface wear consistent with age, visible scratches on the case and bracelet links, dial and hands appear clean with intact tritium or early luminova plots. Overall condition is Good to Very Good for a neo-vintage tool watch.
Value Estimate
Estimated secondary market value ranges between $2,000 and $3,500 USD depending on the inclusion of original box, papers, and recent service history
Care & Maintenance
Recommended full mechanical service every 5 years, avoid exposing the watch to strong magnetic fields, ensure the crown is fully screwed down before water exposure, clean the Rouleaux bracelet with a soft brush and mild soapy water
Similar Watches
Omega Speedmaster Automatic, Tag Heuer S/EL Chronograph, Rolex Daytona, Breitling Crosswind
Interesting Facts
The Chronomat was originally designed in 1984 in collaboration with the Italian Air Force's aerobatic squad, the Frecce Tricolori, saving Breitling from the quartz crisis and establishing the signature look that defined the brand throughout the 1990s.