Breitling Navitimer Ref. D13022 'Old Navitimer' Two-Tone
Pilot/Aviation Chronograph · Breitling (independent luxury brand during this era, now owned by CVC Capital Partners). High-tier luxury tool watch manufacturer.
Period: Neo-Vintage (1990s). Stylistic indicators include the smaller B-wing logo (used prior to the 2018 rebrand) and the 6-9-12 subdial layout characteristic of the Valjoux 7750 era.
Type
Pilot/Aviation Chronograph
Brand
Breitling (independent luxury brand during this era, now owned by CVC Capital Partners). High-tier luxury tool watch manufacturer.
Movement
Automatic self-winding, Breitling Caliber 13 (based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750). Features 25 jewels, 28,800 vph frequency, and approximately 42 hours of power reserve.
Dimensions
41.5mm diameter, 14.2mm thickness, 48mm lug-to-lug, 22mm lug width. Wears slightly larger due to the thin bezel and expansive dial.
Description
The Navitimer is arguably the most famous pilot's watch in history. This D13022 reference blends the utility of a flight computer with the elegance of 18k gold accents. Its silver and gold 'reverse panda' aesthetic provides a warm, luxury feel compared to the standard steel models, while maintaining the technical complexity that has defined the line since 1952.
Key Features
Circular slide rule bezel, gold-tone B-wing logo, 7750-based vertical subdial orientation, and the rare two-tone D-spec reference number.
Dial Description
Silver-white dial with gold-tone 'panda' subdials at 6, 9, and 12. Features applied gold baton indices, luminous syringe hands, and the iconic circular slide rule scale on the periphery. Date window at 3 o'clock.
Case Material
Two-tone construction featuring a stainless steel mid-case and an 18k yellow gold knurled bezel. The case features a high-polish finish throughout.
Crystal Type
Cambered sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective (AR) coating. A blue tint is visible on the upper left portion, indicating the AR coating is intact.
Bezel Details
Bi-directional rotating slide rule bezel in 18k yellow gold. Features a serrated/knurled 'beaded' edge for grip, used for flight calculations like fuel consumption and airspeed.
Crown & Pushers
Yellow gold push-pull crown (non-screw down) with Breitling 'B' logo. Traditional pump-style chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock.
Bracelet or Strap
Black padded calfskin leather strap with contrast white stitching. Likely features a stainless steel Breitling tang-style buckle or deployant clasp.
Caseback Details
Solid stainless steel screw-down caseback featuring the Breitling conversion scale for temperature and weights, along with reference and serial numbers.
Movement Type
Automatic self-winding, Breitling Caliber 13 (based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750). Features 25 jewels, 28,800 vph frequency, and approximately 42 hours of power reserve.
Water Resistance
30 meters (3 ATM). Splash resistant only. Not suitable for swimming or diving, as the slide rule bezel mechanism provides multiple points for moisture ingress.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made; manufactured in Grenchen or La Chaux-de-Fonds. Uses a heavily modified and chronometer-certified Swiss ETA base movement.
Age Estimate
Circa 1993-1998 based on the Ref. D13022 designation and the specific 'Old Navitimer' branding layout.
Cultural Significance
Recognized as the quintessential 'flight computer' watch; it is a permanent icon of 20th-century tool watch design and is highly sought after by aviation enthusiasts.
Condition Notes
Very Good condition. Minor surface scratches on the gold bezel. Movement appears functional, and the blue AR coating on the sapphire is exceptionally well-preserved without visible scratches.
Value Estimate
$3,500 - $4,800 USD. Factors increasing value include the gold bezel and the presence of original box/papers. Two-tone models generally command a slight premium over base steel.
Care & Maintenance
Service every 5-7 years due to the aging lubricants in the Valjoux 7750 movement. Avoid water exposure as these vintage-style Navtimers have very low water resistance.
Similar Watches
Omega Speedmaster Professional (manual wind, no date), Sinn 903 (uses similar slide rule design), Breitling Navitimer B01 (modern in-house movement).
Interesting Facts
The Navitimer was the official watch of the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association). The slide rule was invented before the age of electronic calculators to allow pilots to perform complex navigation math on their wrists.