Tavannes Two-Tone Sector Dial 'Bullseye' Vintage Dress Watch
Dress Watch / Art Deco Field Watch · Tavannes Watch Co. (closely associated with Cyma). Historically a high-quality Swiss manufacturer known for producing movements for brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Dunhill.
Period: Art Deco / Early Mid-Century (1930s-1940s). Stylistic indicators include the sector dial, the use of a sub-seconds register at 6 o'clock, and the 'Bullseye' concentric ring design commonly found in the WWII era.
Type
Dress Watch / Art Deco Field Watch
Brand
Tavannes Watch Co. (closely associated with Cyma). Historically a high-quality Swiss manufacturer known for producing movements for brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Dunhill.
Movement
Manual-wound mechanical movement. Likely a Tavannes/Cyma in-house caliber (such as the Cal. 414 or 586), typically featuring 15 to 17 jewels, a frequency of 18,000 bph, and a power reserve of approximately 38-42 hours.
Dimensions
Case diameter: 30-33mm (typical for the era); Thickness: 9-10mm; Lug-to-lug: 38-40mm; Lug width: 16mm. This watch wears much smaller than modern standards.
Description
This Tavannes represents the peak of 1940s civilian watch design, often referred to as a 'Bullseye' dial. The high-contrast sector layout was intended for legibility but has become a hallmark of vintage elegance. Despite its diminutive size by modern standards, the concentric rings and sub-seconds register provide a complex, architectural depth that is highly sought after by vintage enthusiasts.
Key Features
Two-tone sector dial (Bullseye), sub-seconds at 6, leaf hands, and the 'Tavannes' shield logo below the 12 o'clock position.
Dial Description
Two-tone 'Bullseye' sector dial. Features a copper/salmon center and sub-seconds track, contrasted with a dark chocolate or black outer hour track. Arabic numerals are printed in a serif font. Hands are leaf-shaped (Feuille) in a gilt or straw-yellow finish.
Case Material
Staybrite Stainless Steel or Nickel-Chrome plated base metal. The case shows significant wear and oxidation typical of mid-century non-steel alloys, featuring a polished thin bezel and brushed mid-case.
Crystal Type
Acrylic/Hesalite domed crystal. It shows various surface scratches and minor scuffing consistent with age.
Bezel Details
Fixed, thin stepped bezel made of the same material as the case. It is integrated into the case design to maximize the dial's visual presence.
Crown & Pushers
Push-pull oversized 'pumpkin' or fluted crown. Non-branded, typical for Tavannes watches of this period to aid in easy daily hand-winding.
Bracelet or Strap
Aftermarket tan/cognac pebbled leather strap with contrast cream stitching. Standard tang-style steel buckle.
Caseback Details
Solid, snap-on caseback likely made of stainless steel (often marked 'Fond Acier Inoxydable' even if the mid-case is plated). May contain the Tavannes logo and serial numbers inside.
Movement Type
Manual-wound mechanical movement. Likely a Tavannes/Cyma in-house caliber (such as the Cal. 414 or 586), typically featuring 15 to 17 jewels, a frequency of 18,000 bph, and a power reserve of approximately 38-42 hours.
Water Resistance
Non-waterproof. This is a vintage piece with no modern sealing; moisture from humidity or hand-washing can cause internal rust.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made. Manufactured in Tavannes, Switzerland. Features an in-house Tavannes movement.
Age Estimate
Circa 1938-1945. The dial layout and case architecture are indicative of the late Art Deco period transitioning into WWII-era military aesthetics.
Cultural Significance
Represented the 'Golden Age' of Swiss mechanical watchmaking where in-house production was the standard for reputable houses. Sector dials from this era influenced modern designs by Patek Philippe and Longines.
Condition Notes
Overall Good/Fair vintage condition. The dial shows heavy patina and oxidation (tropicalization) on the copper elements. The case shows significant plating wear and 'pitting' near the lugs. The crystal has surface scratches but is clear.
Value Estimate
$350 - $750 USD. Value is driven by the 'Sector' dial appeal; however, the case wear and dial oxidation/damage limit the ceiling compared to mint examples.
Care & Maintenance
Requires service every 3-5 years. Avoid all contact with water as there are no gaskets. Do not over-wind; stop when resistance is felt. Keep away from strong magnets which can hairspring stickiness.
Similar Watches
Omega 30T2 Sector Dial, Longines 'Heritage Classic' Sector, Vintage Cyma Watersport, Patek Philippe Ref. 96.
Interesting Facts
Tavannes was once one of the largest watch manufacturers in the world and was a pioneer in waterproof case designs. They famously provided North Pole explorers and military divers with timepieces in the early 20th century.