Tressa Lux 21 Jewels Automatic (Vintage 1970s Ref. Series)
Day-Date Casual / Dress Watch · Tressa (Tressa Watch Co.), a mid-range Swiss manufacturer famous for bold designs during the 1970s before the company closed during the Quartz Crisis.
Period: Vintage (1970s Disco/Space Age era): Identified by the faceted crystal, hooded lugs, large chunky tonneau case, and vibrant metallic dial accents.
Type
Day-Date Casual / Dress Watch
Brand
Tressa (Tressa Watch Co.), a mid-range Swiss manufacturer famous for bold designs during the 1970s before the company closed during the Quartz Crisis.
Movement
Automatic self-winding mechanical movement, typically utilize the Adolph Schild (AS) Caliber 5206 or similar, featuring 21 jewels, roughly 21,600 bph, and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
Dimensions
Case Diameter: 37-38mm; Thickness: 13mm (due to faceted crystal); Lug-to-Lug: 42mm; Lug Width: 18-20mm. Wears larger due to the integrated-style case design.
Description
The Tressa Lux is a quintessential 'Disco Era' timepiece, prioritizing bold visual flair and geometric complexity. Known for its 'New Old Stock' (NOS) availability in the modern market, it represents the final flourishing of creative Swiss mechanical design before quartz dominance. The watch is defined by its architectural faceted crystal and rich metallic dial textures.
Key Features
Faceted geometric crystal; double date/day display; '27' and star medallions on dial; hooded lug tonneau case; red-dot seconds hand; 'Tressa Lux' branding.
Dial Description
Sunburst brown/chocolate gradient dial with applied gold-tone 'block' indices. Features a day-date window at 3 o'clock and a unique independent date aperture at 6 o'clock (often displaying the day of the month again or a special counter). Gold-tone baton hands with lume strips and a signature red-dot tipped seconds hand.
Case Material
Stainless steel with a polished/brushed finish; often featuring a gold-plated bezel ring or contrasting metallic tones typical of 1970s 'funky' Swiss watches.
Crystal Type
Faceted mineral 'Crystal' (as labeled on dial), featuring multiple internal or external facets that catch the light, reminiscent of a gemstone cut. Condition appears clear but prone to edge chipping.
Bezel Details
Fixed, integrated into the case design; polished gold-tone inner ring surrounding the faceted crystal.
Crown & Pushers
One main push-pull crown at 3 o'clock for time setting; one secondary pusher at 2 o'clock specifically for quick-setting the date/day calendars.
Bracelet or Strap
Integrated-style stainless steel flat-link bracelet with a folding clasp. The design is tapered to match the hooded lugs of the tonneau case.
Caseback Details
Solid screw-down stainless steel caseback. Usually features the Tressa logo and 'Stainless Steel' engravings.
Movement Type
Automatic self-winding mechanical movement, typically utilize the Adolph Schild (AS) Caliber 5206 or similar, featuring 21 jewels, roughly 21,600 bph, and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
Water Resistance
Vintage rating (originally 30m/3ATM), but should currently be treated as non-water resistant due to age-related gasket degradation.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made. Manufactured in Switzerland (T Swiss Made T) using Swiss mechanical movements.
Age Estimate
Circa 1970–1975 based on the tritium lume markings ('T Swiss Made T'), faceted crystal, and geometric case styling.
Cultural Significance
A prime example of the 'Funky 70s' Swiss design movement, showing how mechanical brands attempted to compete with the rising popularity of digital watches by using avant-garde shapes and colors.
Condition Notes
Very Good (likely NOS or lightly worn). The case polishing is sharp, the dial is clean with no visible oxidation, and the tritium lume has aged to a creamy patina. Crystals of this type are hard to replace if damaged.
Value Estimate
$150 – $350 USD depending on the specific dial color and rarity of the faceted crystal. NOS (New Old Stock) condition examples command the higher end.
Care & Maintenance
Service every 5-7 years; avoid water as vintage gaskets are likely dry; do not engage the quick-set pusher between 9 PM and 3 AM; keep away from strong magnetic fields.
Similar Watches
Rado Diastar (famed for faceted crystals), Ricoh 'Spacial', Seiko 'Advan' series, or Mido Multi Star.
Interesting Facts
Tressa was particularly popular in the Middle Eastern and Asian markets in the 70s. Many 'NOS' examples found today were part of massive liquidated stock found in warehouses decades after the brand ceased operations.