Vintage Rado Ancre 17 Rubis Small Seconds
Dress Watch · Rado (Member of Swatch Group since later years), luxury/premium tier. Founded in 1917 as Schlup & Co., the brand transitioned to the Rado name in the 1950s.
Period: Mid-Century Modern (1950s-early 1960s). It features hallmark traits of this era including a textured sector/honeycomb dial and a localized small seconds subdial.
Type
Dress Watch
Brand
Rado (Member of Swatch Group since later years), luxury/premium tier. Founded in 1917 as Schlup & Co., the brand transitioned to the Rado name in the 1950s.
Movement
Manual-wind mechanical movement, 17 Jewels (indicated by "17 Rubis" on dial), likely a Swiss Adolf Schild (AS) or ETA ebauche movement common in this period.
Dimensions
Case diameter: 33mm - 35mm; Thickness: 9mm - 10mm; Lug-to-lug: 41mm - 43mm; Lug width: 18mm. Typical of vintage men's dress standards.
Description
This Rado Ancre is a beautiful representation of post-WWII Swiss watchmaking. Before Rado became famous for its futuristic ceramic designs, they produced elegant, traditionally styled dress watches. This piece features a complex textured dial that catches light through its concentric and honeycomb patterns, offering a sophisticated wrist presence despite its smaller vintage dimensions.
Key Features
Elaborate honeycomb/sector dial texture, 'Ancre 17 Rubis' designation, applied gold-tone dagger markers, and the use of the early Rado script logo without the modern rotating anchor symbol.
Dial Description
Champagne/Silver sunburst and honeycomb textured dial. Features a sector design with fluted outer ring, applied gold-tone Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, dagger indices, alpha hands, and a circular grained small-seconds subdial at 6 o'clock.
Case Material
Gold-plated or Gold-capped base metal (likely brass) with polished finish; case shows wear and brassing on the lugs typical of high-use vintage pieces.
Crystal Type
Domed Acrylic (Plexiglass), common for the 1950s, providing a warm distortion at the edges.
Bezel Details
Fixed, thin polished gold-plated bezel integrated into the case design to maximize the dial's presence.
Crown & Pushers
Small, knurled push-pull crown located at 3 o'clock, appears to be original or era-appropriate replacement.
Bracelet or Strap
Aftermarket black leather strap with white contrast stitching and a pin buckle.
Caseback Details
Generally a solid stainless steel snap-on or screw-down caseback, often featuring the early Rado water-horse or logo etchings.
Movement Type
Manual-wind mechanical movement, 17 Jewels (indicated by "17 Rubis" on dial), likely a Swiss Adolf Schild (AS) or ETA ebauche movement common in this period.
Water Resistance
Non-existent. Rated as 'Waterproof' in the 1950s, but gaskets are likely perished. Practical consideration: strictly splash-proof at best; keep away from water.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made. Manufactured in Lengnau, Switzerland. Uses high-quality Swiss outsourced mechanical components typical of the pre-quartz era.
Age Estimate
Circa 1955-1962. This predates the brand's shift toward ceramic and scratch-proof materials (like the 1962 DiaStar).
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Golden Age' of mechanical watchmaking where Swiss brands competed heavily on dial aesthetics and slimness before the Quartz Crisis.
Condition Notes
Good vintage condition. Visible brassing and plating wear on the lugs. The dial shows minor oxidation and 'tropical' spotting. Hands show light patina. Crystal appears to have minor surface swirlies.
Value Estimate
$250 - $600 USD depending on the movement's health and geographical market. Originality of the dial is the main value driver.
Care & Maintenance
Should be serviced every 5-7 years by a vintage specialist. Not water-resistant; avoid all moisture. Hand-wind daily until resistance is felt, but do not force the crown.
Similar Watches
Omega Seamaster (30mm series), Longines Conquest Heritage, Tissot Visodate (vintage), and Universal Genève Polerouter (though the latter is usually more expensive).
Interesting Facts
The word 'Ancre' refers to the Swiss lever escapement. This model represents the bridge between Rado's origins as an ebauche manufacturer and its evolution into a high-design luxury powerhouse.