Breitling Chronomat Two-Tone Ref. D13050.1
Chronograph / Pilot Watch · Breitling SA, independent luxury Swiss watchmaker tier with a rich heritage in aviation and chronographs
Period: Neo-Vintage / Quartz Revolution Era (Late 20th Century, 1990s)
Type
Chronograph / Pilot Watch
Brand
Breitling SA, independent luxury Swiss watchmaker tier with a rich heritage in aviation and chronographs
Movement
Automatic mechanical chronograph, Breitling Caliber 13 (Valjoux 7750 base), 28,800 vph, 42-hour power reserve, 25 jewels
Dimensions
Case diameter 39mm, case thickness 14.5mm, lug-to-lug 47mm, lug width 20mm
Description
The Breitling Chronomat Ref. D13050.1 is a quintessential 1990s luxury pilot chronograph that perfectly embodies Breitling's bold and opulent design language of the era. Featuring a two-tone combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, it boasts the iconic rider-tab bezel designed to aid pilots in timing operations while offering glove-friendly grip. The striking black dial with contrasting champagne subdials gives it a classic panda-adjacent aesthetic, while the unique Rouleaux bracelet adds an unmistakable vintage-modern texture and presence on the wrist.
Key Features
Signature rider tabs on the bezel at 15-minute marks, unique cylindrical-link Rouleaux bracelet, Valjoux 7750-powered tri-compax chronograph layout, distinct two-tone 18k gold and steel construction, and onion crown
Dial Description
Black dial with contrasting champagne/gold chronograph subdials in a tri-compax layout (12-6-9), applied luminous baton indices, luminous sword hands, date window at 3 o'clock, and tachymeter scale on the inner flange
Case Material
Stainless steel with 18k yellow gold riders, crown, and pushers (Two-Tone / Rolesor equivalent)
Crystal Type
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal with a slightly domed profile and cyclops lens over the date window
Bezel Details
Unidirectional rotating rider-tab bezel in stainless steel with 18k yellow gold rider tabs at the 15-minute intervals and screw markers
Crown & Pushers
Screw-down onion-style 18k yellow gold crown, pump-style 18k yellow gold chronograph pushers, featuring Breitling's signature crown guard integration
Bracelet or Strap
Stainless steel Rouleaux (bullet) bracelet with concealed folding clasp, notable for its cylindrical link design characteristic of 1990s Breitling
Caseback Details
Solid screw-down stainless steel caseback featuring Breitling's historical registry markings, logo, and technical specifications stamped in relief
Movement Type
Automatic mechanical chronograph, Breitling Caliber 13 (Valjoux 7750 base), 28,800 vph, 42-hour power reserve, 25 jewels
Water Resistance
Rated to 100 meters (330 feet / 10 ATM), suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and recreational water sports, though vintage water resistance seals should be verified by a watchmaker before immersion
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made, manufactured in Grenchen and La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, utilizing an outsourced highly modified Valjoux base movement
Age Estimate
Circa 1990s (production era of the Ref. D13050)
Cultural Significance
Representing the zenith of 1990s luxury watch design, the Chronomat popularized the bold, assertive aesthetic that defined high-end tool watches of the post-quartz era, bridging the gap between professional aviation instruments and status symbols.
Condition Notes
Very good neo-vintage condition. Case shows minor hairline scratches consistent with light wear, with crisp satin and polished finishing. Gold elements show minimal oxidation. Dial and hands are pristine with intact tritium or luminova patina. Bracelet shows typical minimal stretch for a Rouleaux design.
Value Estimate
Secondary market value ranges between $2,500 and $4,500 USD, depending heavily on the inclusion of original box and papers, recent service history, and overall condition of the gold and bracelet
Care & Maintenance
Recommended professional service every 4 to 5 years to ensure lubrication and seal integrity. Water resistance testing should be performed annually due to the vintage nature of the gaskets. Avoid strong magnetic fields and store in a controlled environment.
Similar Watches
Rolex Daytona Two-Tone Ref. 16523, Omega Speedmaster Reduced Two-Tone, TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, and Breitling Windrider Blackbird
Interesting Facts
The Chronomat was originally launched in 1984 in collaboration with the elite Italian Air Force aerobatic team, the Frecce Tricolori. It became the flagship model that saved Breitling from the quartz crisis and established the brand's modern design DNA.