Omega Seamaster Sub-Second Gold-Capped Ref. 14391
Dress Watch · Omega (now part of the Swatch Group). Known for prestigious, high-accuracy movements and a Tier-1 luxury reputation especially during the mid-20th century.
Period: Mid-Century Modern (Late 1950s - Early 1960s). Indicated by the thin baton markers, domed sunburst dial, and the crosshair sub-second register typical of the era.
Type
Dress Watch
Brand
Omega (now part of the Swatch Group). Known for prestigious, high-accuracy movements and a Tier-1 luxury reputation especially during the mid-20th century.
Movement
Manual / Hand-wound, likely Omega Caliber 267 or 268 (30mm series), 17 jewels, 18,000 bph frequency, power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Dimensions
33mm to 34mm case diameter, 10mm thickness, 40mm lug-to-lug, 18mm lug width. This is a classic mid-sized dress watch that wears relatively small by modern standards.
Description
This Omega Seamaster is a quintessential example of mid-century elegance. While the Seamaster name today implies a bulky diver, in the 1950s it represented water-resistance in a refined daily-wear package. The sunburst dial and crosshair sub-seconds provide a sophisticated visual symmetry that has become highly collectible.
Key Features
Applied Omega logo, 'Seamaster' signature in cursive script, crosshair sub-seconds dial, 17-jewel manual wind movement, and the elegant gold-capped case construction.
Dial Description
Silver-white sunburst finish with a domed shape. Features applied gold-tone baton indices, a double baton at 12 o'clock, and gold-tone dauphine hands. A recessed sub-second dial with crosshair markings sits at 6 o'clock.
Case Material
Gold-capped (heavy 14k or 18k gold over stainless steel) with a polished finish. The lugs show some wear-through of the gold capping, a common trait of vintage gold-filled/capped pieces.
Crystal Type
Domed acrylic (hesalite). The crystal shows significant surface scratching and light hazing from age.
Bezel Details
Fixed, thin polished gold-capped beveled bezel integrated with the mid-case.
Crown & Pushers
Push-pull gold-tone crown, likely original with the Omega embossed logo, though heavily worn.
Bracelet or Strap
Black crocodile-patterned leather strap, likely aftermarket (non-Omega). It features simple black stitching and a standard pin buckle.
Caseback Details
Solid, screw-down stainless steel case back. Likely features the early hippocampus (Sea Monster) medallion though it may be faint if worn down.
Movement Type
Manual / Hand-wound, likely Omega Caliber 267 or 268 (30mm series), 17 jewels, 18,000 bph frequency, power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Water Resistance
Rated as 'Waterproof' in the 1960s (approx 30m), but currently considered non-water resistant due to age. Exposure to moisture may cause rust on the movement or dial damage.
Origin & Provenance
Swiss Made. Manufactured in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland. Features an in-house Omega manual movement.
Age Estimate
Circa 1959–1962. The '17 Jewels' text and dial layout are consistent with Omega catalogs from the turn of the decade.
Cultural Significance
This era of Seamaster defined the transition of watches from delicate jewelry pieces to durable 'tool-dress' watches that could survive moisture and dust, paving the way for the modern luxury sports watch.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good. The dial remains relatively clean with minor spotting. The case shows significant wear to the gold capping on the lugs ('brassiness'). The crystal has noticeable scratches. The crown appears to have lost some of its plating/definition.
Value Estimate
$600 - $950 USD depending on the clarity of the caseback emblem and the service history. The wear on the gold capping affects the value negatively compared to a solid gold or mint steel version.
Care & Maintenance
Should be serviced every 5-7 years by a vintage specialist. Avoid water contact entirely as old gaskets will have failed. Do not over-wind the crown; stop when you feel resistance.
Similar Watches
Omega Geneve (lesser water resistance), Longines flagship (similar aesthetic), and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual (higher price point, automatic movement).
Interesting Facts
The 'Seamaster' was originally inspired by water-resistant watches supplied to the British military in WWII. The manual-wind 30mm calibers found in these watches are legendary for their durability and ease of service.